Feeling the heat from athleisure’s blazing success, jeansmakers have been changing tack in recent seasons, introducing cropped styles that give a leg-up to what’s below. Now though, after several years of pinrolled jeans, menswear’s best-dressed are turning to the turn-up en masse, and for good reason.
“By turning up the hem of your jeans, you add a completely different shape to your overall look,” says Abraham. “Because the hem of most jeans never usually sits perfectly above your ankle, a turn-up stops them bunching up above the shoe and exposes a bit of ankle, giving more of a tapered look.” So turn-ups aren’t just an exercise in adding interest to a look, they’ll stop cankles in their tracks, too.
Turn-ups work best on rigid denim that will more easily retain folds. Try it with a pair of indigo selvedge jeans before finishing with rugged worker or Chelsea boots while it’s still cold, then sneakers when your ankles can handle the breeze.
As with any enduring men’s staple, each season means subtle tweaks to a winning formula. But not even the biggest denimheads saw dad denim coming.
Unsurprisingly, a lot can go wrong with this trend. Think of that loose, slightly faded pair your old man wears when he’s cutting the hedges and you’re on the right track; think Simon Cowell and you’ve gone one step too far. Rewind immediately.
“The resurgence of dad denim is one that’s been championed by high-end designers – it’s all about an unfussy, unpretentious look, even if the price tag suggests otherwise,” says Reiss brand stylist Paul Higgins. Fortunately, the high street has also muscled in with affordable styles, so you don’t have to drop a mint to look intentionally normal.
It’s a denim shade that works particularly well with normcore stablemates like boxy overshirts and colour block tees. In short: if it looks relaxed and basic, you’re doing dad denim right. Just leave the dance moves at home.